Walking through Nairobi’s Central Business District, it is apparent that the new booming business is  cosmetics. It’s crystal clear, hair and nails have it.

Hail to the middle class who crave the new consumer and luxury goods that are now driving a multi-million dollar economy. We are all splashing out to look and feel good, with the cosmetics industry estimated to be worth Sh20 billion.

This beauty and personal care market is growing rapidly every day, with retail distribution channels expanding and a wide variety of affordable products readily available to all as consumer demand grows.

From natural to organic, from salons to luxury spas and  make-up kiosks, the beauty industry is thriving, creating opportunities for entrepreneurs and online content influencers alike.

Walking from stall to stall along the bustling shopping street of Moi Avenue, a parade of aggressive marketers stand in queue, each one dazzling with every shade and shape of nail gel polish, acrylic and stick-on.

Inside the boutique stalls, business is booming and fast. It is the much sought-after touch to a fulfilling look in one of Africa’s fastest-growing economies.

Here, the value of what you get depends on your worth and need. You can have your nails done for as little as Sh500.

In this venture I am accompanied by a female friend. She visits one of the boutique stalls here for most of her pedicure and manicure as well as all things nails. Her services are offered by a celebrity stylist. For her hands and feet, she parts with Sh8,000. Hers is an extra touch.

Her stylist is a trained nails technician who also refers to himself as a nails engineer.

When I try to inquire why this service is costing an arm and leg, literally, he sighs with a little attitude; “Cheap is expensive.” He claims to be a seasoned expert.

It is not just a booming business in the central business district. Nail salons and parlors can be found in every small space in the numerous city mall, hotel spaces   and residential estate serving the six-million residents in the capital city.

The common services are pedicure whose average price is Sh500, manicure (about Sh400), stick-on (Sh800), tips (Sh800) and gel polish application at Sh300 for a beautiful beauty afternoon and evening outing.

Leading medical outlets such as Aga Khan University Hospital have taken the game higher with services such as dermatological diagnosis and management, dermatosurgical care and venereological diagnosis and management. They are managing hair loss and nail conditions.

But with the growing cosmetics industry comes a cost, one beyond the price offered for the service at the point of contact. 

Let’s narrow it down to nails.

Nail polish has always been a fashion statement and just like make-up and wearing matching clothes, it is an art and an expression of one’s personality.

There is something about neatly done mani-pedi red nails and white toes with a glossy finish that just screams modern, class and clean.

Even men have joined the bandwagon with the clear gel polish.

Red fingernails are stylish, sophisticated, and confident, which is why iconic celebrities like Marilyn Monroe and Princess Diana had them.

Red was once used to indicate a person’s social class.

According to the National Institutes of Health, up to 90 per cent of women globally, use nail  cosmetics. From mixing a blend of beeswax, egg whites and gelatin to cutex and now gel polish, acrylics, builder gel and stick-ons, the cocktail is limitless.

Then there are artificial nails.

They offer an array of creative and amazing nail art designs that allow a person to pick from a tapestry of colours, textures, patterns or nail shapes. 

The look you are going for will determine what you want to use; whether acrylics, builder gel stick-ons or  gel polish as some of them are applied together. 

They are also preferred for the short time it takes to dry them out using the LED or UV machines and because they last longer than a polish, typically four weeks or a little over.

With their respective advantages and disadvantages, it would be difficult to conclude with certainty which nail enhancements are better.

Everything essentially depends on the type of manicure you want. You will need to take into account every little element, including the designs, artwork, polish, strength, flexibility, and time.

While beautifully manicured nails can be a statement of style and sophistication, it is important to be aware of the potential health risks associated with certain nail enhancement practices.

Skin cancer by the LED/UV machines.

The lamps used to cure these nails emit UV radiation, which has also been linked to skin cancer and premature ageing.

The Skin Cancer Foundation recommends using a broad-spectrum sunscreen before using them if you can’t avoid them completely, but they still won’t protect you from cancer under the nails, also known as subungual melanoma.

Subungual melanoma can start as a brown or dark line under a toenail or fingernail. An individual may mistake it for a bruise.

The primary side effects to watch out for include brown or dark streaks in the nail with no known injury, streaks on the nails that increase in size, and a bruise on the nail that does not heal or move up as the fingernail grows.

One experiences fingernails or toenails that are separated from the nail bed, darkening of the skin next to the nail, a nail that drains or creates a nodule, and thinning and splitting of the nail plate.

Damaged Nails

Getting stick-ons, also known as ‘tips’ especially long ones can easily catch on objects, leading to painful nail injuries.

Acrylics may harm the nails resulting in Worn-down Nail syndrome, a condition in which exposure to acrylics, acetone remover and nail filing causes the nail to dry out and weaken.

 A case study done in 2020 looked at a woman who had acrylic use-related nail damage. She displayed signs of onycholysis, a disorder in which the nail beds separate from the nails. Her flesh surrounding her nails became red and swollen as well.

Nail damage is prone to happen in the process of removing and applying the fake nails. The fake nails make the natural nails brittle, weak and easy to break. Improper removal of the fake nails encourages trauma to the nail bed and could make the nails vulnerable to infections and permanent damage.

The Acrylic nails and nail glue contain a string of chemicals that encourages damage to the skin surrounding the nail area. They lead to irritation, dryness and chemical burns in some case scenarios.

 Nail fungus is a threat caused by improper hygiene practices around one’s nails. For fake nails that are improperly taken care of, the moisture is trapped underneath could provide a perfect environment for fungi breeding.

This triggers nail fungus infections that could end up being very fatal. Example of such fungal infections include onychomycosis which cause nails to appear a yellow color and very weak. Most people presume this condition to be as “rotten.”

Allergic reactions and eczema

Despite being typically safe, acrylic nails can bring with them health problems; including dermatitis or allergic reactions. Contact dermatitis, a kind of eczema, is an allergic reaction that some people who obtain acrylic nails encounter.

This could be a response to the adhesive used to fix the artificial nails, or it could be the artificial nails themselves. Exposure to acrylic powder and fake nails can cause hand eczema for both the client and the technicians.

Inhalation of acrylic fumes and nail dust from filling nails can cause headaches, dizziness, nausea, wheezing, chest tightness,  irritation, and asthma according to the Health and Safety Authority.

Exposure to Hepatitis B and HIV

A study by The Hepatitis B Foundation indicates that sharing tools could transmit Hepatitis B and HIV. Infectious diseases could be easily spread by tiny blood droplets. Items like foot basins and finger bowls must also be thoroughly cleaned.

They recommend that if you have cuts, bug bites, or a skin infection, do not get a manicure or pedicure and that you should reconsider having your cuticles cut.

Vet the nail bar that you go to and ensure that their tools are sterilised or bring your own. Cheap services could lead to an expensive affair if the parlour uses the same tools on everyone without disinfecting them and especially where there is an influx of people waiting for the service.